Despite the current focus on vintage Americana and the revivals of American brands (Gant by Michael Bastian, Woolrich Woolen Mills, L.L. Bean Signature), the Japanese clothing designers continue to best us at our own game. Daisuke Obana presented his N. Hoolywood line for the first time in New York City with meticulously recreated mug shots of his street casting of guys, who somberly plodded along behind a partition. The focus was on chain gangs from 1910 to 1940 oakley sunglasses cheap, and colliding engineer stripes, boxy cotton smock jackets and printed convict numbers went far beyond mere period recreation. BP
Scott Sternberg’s Band of Outsiders presentation — thoughtfully produced, as always — was a graduation of sorts. The preppy, tailored clothing has grown up into a more sleek, pared-down look, without losing its charm. The combination of oxford shirt oakley sunglasses cheap, matching pajama pants and piped blazer made for the perfect example of the new Ivy Leaguer. BP
Chris Moore/Catwalking.com Band of Outsiders.
Neilson Barnard/Getty Images; Courtesy of Antonio Azzuolo; Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Robert Geller; Antonio Azzuolo; Duckie Brown.
Jewelry for men is always a tricky subject oakley sunglasses cheap, but a couple designers this week made convincing cases. Loden Dager collaborated with Philip Crangi on an entire line, including chains that belted shirts or looped through jackets. In a more subtle approach, Simon Spurr punctuated a perfectly tailored jacket sleeve with a delicate gold Luis Morais bangle. JR
When it comes to Fashion Week casting, the big news wasn’t so much in a breakout as it was about the prevalence of European show stars making the leap over. Most notably, the French model Clement Chabernaud (Wilhelmina) — a fixture in Paris and Milan — made his debut in shows like Perry Ellis and Rag & Bone. JR
Bespoken.
Loden Dager; Simon Spurr.
Richard Chai’s rich, multilayered show contained colorful photo printed cottons and those very ’80s open-weave mesh knits that are having a revival. He premiered a great new collaboration with Original Penguin: polos with squared shoulders, huge dropped armholes (à la Jeff Spicoli) and studded bands. BP
Patrick Ervell.
The brothers at Bespoken — Sammy, James and Liam Fayed — created a sharp, smart collection rooted strongly in the tailored tradition of their Turnbull and Asser roots. The club collared shirts and unconstructed jackets had a youthful vibrance that was distinctly unfussy and fun. They also introduced a capsule collection of accessories and pajamas commemorating the 125th anniversary of T and A, with patterns from the archives dating back to 1885, the year it was founded. BP
N. Hoolywood.
Anything goes with color combinations this season. Robert Geller brought new life to last season’s ubiquitous olive green by pairing it with pink pants. Antonio Azzuolo color-blocked shorts and cardigans in primaries. Duckie Brown used the entire color wheel. JR
Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images (right) Richard Chai.
Patrick Ervell’s strict, signature aesthetic produced some of the most wearable capital “F” fashion of the week, with his clean combinations of tailored jackets and anoraks with slender pants and shorts. Shirts and sports jackets were subtly splattered with tonal colors while Native American-style belts and backpack straps gave a nice punch of pattern. BP
Stephen Lovekin/Getty Images (left) Clement Chabernaud makes his New York debut.
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